Adamw

2JZ-VVTi Start up semi-seq.pclr

No that sounds ok. Os it connected directly to the plemum? Does the MAP read about 100Kpa when the engine isnt running? That is stretching my knowledge sorry. From memory the V4 fuel zone numbers could only do 0-100. In the V5 I think go to 255. Im not sure about the ignition, in the V4 the zone numbers represented advance on top of your base timing so if you had 10deg base timing and 20deg in the ign zone you had 30deg total. So for those numbers in your pic to be relevant you need to know what the base timing was set at.

Adjusting the fuel table numbers will unlikely have any affect unless you have very small numbers in there so its lost resolution. If you have single digits in any of the fuel zones then I would probably suggest dropping the master to make the zones bigger, otherwise dont bother. The Accel enrichment is based on MAP in the G1 ECU's so generally if you have an accel enrichment problem it would be the MAP sensor dying or or something causing a delayed MAP signal such as kinked hose or I have also seen things like the MAP hose tee'd into other stuff like BOV, FPR etc.

Yes, it will be flashing error codes since no sensors are connected. The next step would be to plug ECU back into car loom and "backprobe" at the ECU plug by pushing a pin/neddle in through where the wire enters the connector so you can measure the actual voltage on pin 5 and 34 with everything connected up. Sometimes if you have a bad connection it will measure fine when there is no load/nothing plugged in but it will disappear as soon as you load the circuit up.

When E-throttle mode is switched on, the aux 4 and aux 10 (micro controller pins) work in tandem to control the aux 9 pin (expansion connector). The Aux 4 pin is not available when E-throttle mode is turned on. Aux 9 can be used for E-throttle only, it cant be used as a GP aux out. The 3 easiest options to gain more auxes: Change the idle valve to a two wire solenoid - this will give you 3 more auxes. Make a little patch harness for the ignitor to fire the coils in wasted spark, this would give you 3 more ign outputs to use as auxes. Return the ECU to Link HQ for modification - they could possibly add some wire links to make another couple of auxes available.

All the ECU needs to power up is 12V on pin 5 and ground on 25 or 34. So if you are seeing no blue LED it suggests one of those is missing or the ecu is damaged. If it we me, I would remove it from the car and just power it up on the bench using a couple of test wires and a battery to isolate whether it was wiring or ECU. The ECU's are fairly rigorously tested for 24hours at very high and low temps before shipping so it would be highly unlikely to ever see one DOA...

Yep, its a bit confusing the interaction between Aux 9, 10 & 4. These 3 auxes have some interaction as they are designed to be able to work together in an H bridge configuration for drive by wire motor control. If Electronic throttle is turned off in the software, then "Aux 9" in software/PC Link controls the "Aux 10" pin output/hardware. Hence aux 9 set to purge in the software. You will notice there is not even an "Aux 10" in the software/PC Link. The Aux 9 pin on the expansion port can only be used for E-throttle, it cannot be used for anything else (when e-throttle is enabled then Aux 4 actually controls this pin). How about Inj 7 - are you already using that?

There is not even an idle valve set up in your tune. Normally it is on Aux 4 but your aux 4 is turned off. Has anyone changed that recently? Does it actually have an idle valve on the manifold?

Is it a G4 or G4+?

Just a couple of thoughts to consider... Pin 25 & 34 should both be grounded to the same point on the engine. Ground the IGN1A pin C to the rotor housing. The ECU relay only has the ECU and the crank sensor connected so there will only be less than 0.5A going through that relay. It's usually preferred to have the ECU connected to the same power source as the injectors so that it knows injector voltage and can apply the correct dead times, so I would move the injector power off the fuel pump relay and put it on the ECU relay also. This is up to you but if it were me I would have both fuel pumps connected to just one fuel pump relay. The lift pump will only be pulling 5A or less.

1JZ-VVTi Start up Monsoon.pclr

There are a couple of small differences I see but im not sure all of the lambda change is explained. Before the stall your charge temp was 30°C, after restart it had increased to 41°, this would make about a 4% increase in fuel pulse width. Also before the stall the engine was running in a VE cell of 50%, after restart the VE from the fuel table is 53.6%, so this is about a 7% increase in fuel. Having said that, Im not sure I believe your lambda device as the injector duty cycle is actually quite a bit shorter after restart than before it stalled yet the lambda shows richer. Inj DC dropped from 4% to about 2.5%. What brand is the Lambda device and do you trust it? Not many cars would actually idle at 1.2/1.3 lambda so it seems a little unbelievable. Im not convinced your idle valve is working at all as in the first few minutes it goes from 70%DC to 30%DC with barely any change in idle speed. Does it click when you set the output to test mode? Now a questions: For the first 60 seconds the engine is revving up but the throttle shows zero. Also at time 2:30 the engine starts revving but the throttle shows zero. There must be some air coming from somewhere for the RPM to increase like this? Also, forgot to say, you should update your firmware, you are on a very old version that has had many improvements since.

I think you have caused some confusion judging from Simons reply. Note the non VVT 1UZ is not 12-1 in stock form, it is just 12 evenly spaced teeth on the crank. The G4X base map that I suggested you use is already setup correctly for this. With a 12 evenly spaced tooth crank wheel you will need the cam sensor, there is no way it can work without it. If you have modified the stock wheel to 12-1 then it will be ok without a cam sensor but you will need to change the trigger setup in the base map as suggested by Simon.

There is a 1UZ base map in the G4X software. It is from an atom but it will be converted to monsoon when you load it into your ecu. Just change the ignition mode from twin distributor to wasted spark.

Attach your tune and I will have a quick look. Although turning off accel might have helped, I suspect this is just covering up a problem that is coming from somewhere else in the tune. You really need accel enrichment, you will find flat spots when you try to accelerate without it. Does it run ok when warmed up?

Do you also have EGT's connected to the E888, or only the pressure sensors?

If you attach your ECU and dash configs I should be able to set this up.

Sorry Im not seeing it. Below is the first 40 odd seconds, RPM green, Throttle dark blue. Your RPM seems to follow exactly what your foot is doing, the only time RPM drops is when your throttle is closed. If you feels like you have a cut then it sounds more like a misfire issue as I dont see any cuts at all in this log.

Yeah for temp sensors connected to analog inputs you need to use a custom cal table - usually cal 1, 2 or 3 is easiest. If you use a 1Kohm pull-up resistor then you can set the cal table input units to be ohms and enter the resistances from your workshop manual directly into the table and it will do the conversion to voltage math in the background. Most common Japanese sensors will be based on the bosch curve (you can confirm by measuring resistance of your sensor at 20degC it should be ~2500ohm). There are resistance and voltage tables for the most common sensors you can reference in the help file: Technical Terms and Reference > Sensor Calibrations

It appears you may have the TPS wired wrong. Your voltage only varys from about 0.95V to 1.2V from open to closed, normally you would see more like a 3.5V range from open to closed. The GM TPS are usually wired like below, is yours wired like this?

There is no boost cut in your log. There is only one area in the first 1 minute when you have 100% throttle (for only 0.5seconds), in that area it reaches 5700RPM and 28psi boost so it appears to be doing everything it should be. Are you sure you are looking at the same log file?

Also important with the Bosch valves, set the minimum clamp to 15%. They start to open again below 10%.

Oh right. Im pretty sure if you contacted Link service department they would be happy to add a couple of wire links in to give you access to ign 5/6. It used to be about a NZD$150 fee for a basic mod like that when I was there.

I would have normally expected the pull-ups to be turned on, so that is the first thing I would suggest (both trig 1 & 2). Also it looks like your trigger settings are wrong. Trigger mode should be multitooth (it looks like you have it set to multitooth/missing). Trig 1 multitooth position should be Cam with a tooth count of 24. Trig 2 settings look ok.

Yep. For Ign MAP is probably the most correct indicator of cylinder pressure but I often find it easier to use the same axis on both the fuel and ign tables as you dont lose your spot when you are on the dyno switching between fuel & ign tables. So I usually put MGP on both tables. If I was doing a high boost pikes peak car or something I might consider the options more closely...