Vaughan

You could use a GP PWM instead of the IC spray function if you were fine with a slightly simpler activation setup, you would have a minimum frequency of 0.6Hz (spray period of 1.67s) and you could probably get some on/off hysteresis with the activation conditions.
You could also do a Math Block setup with a statement like (Oil Temp > X) | (ECT > Y) | (IAT > Z) which can be used to activate the IC spray (use the math block as the activation input). This wouldn't be increasing DC with temp but would be spraying or not spraying with temp.
Alternatively if you have separate spray motors and enough outputs you could use gp pwms to individually spray just the cooler that was getting too hot.

update on today progress, koracing, following your pointers, traced and found there is no wire in #37 in my miata, so I tested #50 assigned Aux3 in tacho setting, then switch the wire to #37 slot and managed to get it work, with a setting on HIGH side.
Vaughan diagram is applicable to this 95' 1.8L Miata, no B/W wire on #37.
Thank you very much, koracing and Vaughn for sharing the useful diagrams and valuable pointers.  
I'll work on the CEL next and noted on the knock sensor pull up.

Vaughan and Adam, Thanks for the advice and support 

I have a map (a base map I have set up) saved with the first math block used to convert Lambda to AFR (gasoline) by multiplying Lamda1 variable a by 14.7.  Equation: a*14.7

This works fine on the ecu I have connected while setting this up.  If I save the tune, however, and then load it on a new ecu this no longer functions.  I can get it to start working again if I go into the math function, play with it like by editing the equation (without making a change) and saving, and then it starts functioning.

Ok @Vaughan, my mistake then

A quick compare of the two shows the differences as trigger pattern and IC Spray setup, the trigger mode would be dependent on the cam trigger as the crank triggers are identical (different pattern of teeth).

Looks like you want more than just a Min/Max DC as you still want to be able to use 0%DC in the table, might be better for us to implement a dedicated PWM Fan controller.

Will do as suggested and report back. Thank you.
 

Thank you for the replies. That's more the type of information i was looking for.  I appreciate it.

Hi Vaughan
Yes pretty much.
I usually set the tablets up with a few different displays and have the status windows on there so the customer can see when things are active.
With them being touch screen they seem to think the window is an on/off switch even though they usually have a switch wired in for whatever function it may be.
Thought I'd bring it up as it would be quite a nice thing to have.
Rough example but you get idea.

I've had a bit of a play with the alternator control now and what I've found is that using something like "voltage<14.7" can result in the output just turning on and off lots which appears to regulate the voltage just fine because the output is updated fast enough but it seems a bit too easy.
My current setup is an attempt at closed loop control in  a table like the above but I was thinking I might try and make a PID loop using mathblocks to see how well that worked. My maths is currently:
Math Block 1 (Voltage Error) = (14.7 - batt Voltage)*(Engine Speed > 0) The engine speed is for setting the error to 0 when below 400rpm to prevent the integral forever increasing
Math Block 2 (Integral component) = ((Voltage Error>0)-(Voltage Error<0))*Integral Gain + Math Block 2   Think I might start with an integral gain of 0.1, might be able to squeeze a *abs(Math Block 2)>Integral limit in there as well with some clever formatting
Math Block 3 (Output) = Voltage Error*Prop Gain + Math Block 2 (Integral Component) + (Voltage Error-Previous Error)*Deriv Gain + Feed forward value (maybe 25 based on my experience so far)
Math Block 4 (Previous Error) = Math Block 1  This previous error will be used for the derivative term
 
I haven't implemented or tested this yet so it will doubtless have some teething issues but it could be an interesting demonstration of the power of math blocks. Note the order I have assigned those is very deliberate, error calculated first, then integral, then output, then last error is stored.
In terms of physical wiring I have an Aux output connected directly to the grey/red wire going into the alternator, I have left the grey alternator wire completely disconnected and I have connected another Aux output to my Battery light so that it still does something. Active High is important for the control wire as when it is active low it will do full voltage when the output is off which I did manage to get wrong the first time.

Unsure if I have the derivative around the right way but on the whole it seems to sit there and oscillate at 1.5Hz (on top of the 250Hz PWM speed), maybe more fiddling will improve but should do the job for now.

just download Motec Dash Manager and open it > Communication setup > add Expander Input, Expander output, Expander Diagnostic channel streams. > once added click on Edit. This will show all CAN settings. 

Update time. 
Had a chance to test the fan code this afternoon. Although very complicated (still trying to get my head around how it works) it seems to work perfectly. Fan comes on at a min duty of 25 and off around the same! You are a genius.
Would still like to see a easier way to do this (maybe I should put min/max gp dc clamps in the wishlist? along with a 'kick' feature to temporarily bump the dc up)
But in the mean time, this workaround.... seems to work. 
Thanks for everybody's help, you guys are awesome.
 
Merry Christmas.

Again, thanks for looking into this. I will give Vaughans suggestion a try. Ps. the engine speed condition was just set to >= 0, so i could monitor what the fan was doing on cool down ( car not running) so i could see when it switched off.
Yeah, it didnt seem to work all that well, values below 25 were still being output as it transitioned from 89 - 90 deg. This wasnt for very long 3-5 seconds, but i suspect if the value in the 90 deg cell was lower, this transition phase would grow. It was a very choppy looking transition too, like a coarse stairstep.
I tried to upload a picture of the log taken using Adamws settings, but it wouldnt let me as i have run out of upload capacity, I will see if I can just upload the log instead and you could have a look? Edit, The log file is too big to upload also.
Will give the new suggestion a go and report back.

once again they are not ECU fault codes, they don't exist in the ECU, they only exist in PCLink as a way of indicating why the ECU disconnected.

I did try that in all the mess of today and that didn't help. I just retried now and it worked. happy days!

Set Analog Inputs -> Lambda 1 -> Lambda Sensor Control to Link CAN

Had a quick look at your tune and your boost target is always set to 0 which means that you are entering stage 3 as soon as boost control starts and because your Base DC Mode is set to Stage 2 and your PID values are 0s it will just keep using the wastegate DC value it had in stage 2 (which it passed through immediately).

Yes it will

You only need one channel set to Link CAN Lambda and its ID has to be 950

Thanks guys. Nice list of changes. Keep them coming.

I'm picking up a 1.8 VVT motor for my NA MX5 tonight so might have to give this alternator control a go myself

I've fixed that label thing, will be in the next release.

Have a look at the current firmware, most of that is already in the virtual fuel tank functionality (chassis and body menu)