essb00

Should be:

Signal return       =  SENSOR Ground    Green        
Signal Line / TP  =  AN VOLT 3         Yellow / Black
VREF                   =  SENSOR +5v          Red / Blue

If using Aux outputs switching high side, no need for fly-wheeling diode.
If using Aux outputs switching low side, no need for external fly-wheeling diode (there is one built-in for each Aux output).
If using Injection & Ignition outputs used as Aux switching low side, external fly-wheeling diode recommended.

after you enter new values, you have to press enter, then click done.

Make a GP RPM Limit looking like this (just modify accordingly)...

That is same in G4+ and G4X. I did that one on G4+ Pclink... You can set the X axis parameter to 'none'.
...I can't seem to access your shared link.

IT STARTS!! 
So, having been through absolutely everything and fitting (I suspect crucially!) another new set of plugs, it fired straight up!
The plugs in there were brand new Denso, but I just wonder if there was something up with them. It’s the only thing I changed!
I’m also finding the aftermarket coils it came with to be pretty temperamental, so I’m changing those out for a new set of genuine to hopefully have it ready to tune!
Thanks again to everyone who helped!

Hello thanks again for the help! I was able to resolve the issue by changing the way my pre crank prime works. I had previously had it set up to precrank prime as soon as the ecu is keyed on. i changed it to as soon as the ecu see start signal. i also added an input for the start signal to digital input 2. all is well car now fires up easily and the main problem is resolved!
 

You're still getting trigger errors there.
Do a trigger scope log then post it.

You have the fuel stoichiometric ratio set to 14.1:1 in your tune and the AEM uses a fixed ratio of 14.65:1.  
Best to use Lambda on both then you never need to worry about converting between air fuel ratios.   

Only one CAN-lambda per CAN ID (950, 951, 952, 953 on your case)... Having different ID per device is the only way for the ECU to know from which device it is receiving data from.

I would strong suggest if your tuning this yourself to visit.
 https://www.hpacademy.com/
Otherwise find another tuner.

If you don't also change the values on your fuel table, then it would be too lean to start.
You normally should have 60-80% at 0rpm/100kpa - you'd be having to do some trials before you get the sweet spot - plus some adjustments for the cold start enrichments.

aren't you mixing antilag and launch control?
 
antilag is made to spool the turbo when being off throttle, with letting air pass combined with a late combustion to make more exhaust gas energy spooling the turbo. there would be no point doing a fuel cut in this strategy

0 to 20 kPa MAP = ignition timing to -20 to -15 BTDC.

So things escalated a bit... 

It turns out that the Toyota Prius C / Aqua uses a modified 1NZFE motor (1NZFXE) to suit hybrid application.

So this means it has 13.4:1 compression, ceramic coated pistons, electric waterpump, lighter crank shaft, and a few other goodies that also make sense for things other than a 75hp atkinson cycle motor. 

So I bought some JUN 264 deg cams, stiffer valve springs, fitted ITB, fitted an alternator (normally no belt driven accessories 

and then paired it with a close ratio Vitz RS gearbox. 



The difference is outstanding!



Currently no VVTI working and it's still a completely standard Echo exhaust which is far from optimal. 
I havent been to any events but it's done a 5.8 second 0-100kph with the open diff. 
It's using 66% duty cycle with 310cc 2ZZGE injectors at 55psi. 
Being able to rev it higher, and the close ratio box with a 4.3 final drive has made a massive massive difference.

The noise it makes now is hilarious, none of the performance or sound at all matches the general aura of the car. 

LSD is on the to-do list! 

The speedo will be expecting a "sin wave" type signal that goes above a specific voltage, then falls through zero down to a specific negative voltage.  The circuit I provided will generate a crude representation of this, but the voltage it produces and whether it crosses zero etc can be influenced by the characteristics of the speedo it is connected to.  So you need a scope to see what the problem is.  
Yes you could use a commercial device such as the SGI to do it instead of my circuit, it will likely be more widely tested and robust.  
Just to confirm speedo is working and the wires are connected at the other end, does it show a speed if you connect it directly to the ABS sensor?

Sorry, late to reply!
Ended up going for the Monsoon for the added features for not a lot more money.  Spoke to Barry at MRP and they are making me up a patch harness, so should be reltively plug and play fingers crossed.   A few other jobs to sort out, and then it will be a busy weekend getting the ITB setup and ECU installed.

Do it as part of your normal Oil pressure safety, but set the startup lockout to 0 so it is also working during startup (with road cars usually you dont want it to limit during starting).  Suggest fuel cut so you dont flood it.
Example below wouldnt allow the engine to start until 30kpa oil pressure was seen (0 RPM limit).

If yours is reading 0psi at atmospheric pressure then it is a gauge pressure sensor which is the correct type for fuel and and does not need any math.
The original posters sensor is an absolute pressure sensor so would read something like 14.5psi with sensor removed from the rail.

When your engine is running, you would want to have the smallest ground loop to the power source -- which is the alternator (unless your engine runs without one), which is why it is recommended to have the grounds connected on the engine block/cylinder head.

Smaller ground loop means minimal chances that other accessory loads would be having to share the same ground (having more resistance) to the power source. More grounds, less resistance. Then there is less chance the ECU would be picking electromagnetic interference from ignition system.

If you have the ECU grounds connected to battery negative, it would still have to share the ground wire from the battery negative to engine block with other accessories.

New update is available here:  https://linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/
Release notes:  https://www.linkecu.com/pclink/Link Engine Management PC Link G4X Updates 21042021.pdf
Important notes:
This firmware changes the sync point in some triggermodes so base timing must be checked after doing this update.  
There is a new "Slow Comms" setting added, this may help those with communication problems that are due to some laptops with USB ports that are slow to respond.  This a an ECU setting so the ecu needs the latest firmware instaled before you will have this setting available, you will find it in the main configuration menu (where you set number of cylinders and engine type etc). 
Any new issues related to this update can be reported here.  

It is an issue with Windows scaling... Change it to 100%, it will look ok. Nothing can be done within PCLink to correct that.

Your idle overshoots because of too high PID values.
Try the following (in the screenshot).
*You also need to change the Idle Speed Control Max Clamp (you may need this a little bit higher) & Min Clamp (you may need this lower) accordingly. The idle base position values should be adjusted when AC off.

Have changed the shortcuts to Ctrl + '.' and Ctrl + ',' will be in the next release.

Yes, you can use that. There's really nothing electronic inside of it. Just a solenoid coil - which is ECU controlled by pulse width modulation.