Adamw

Yes, you use the 2nd or 3rd E-throttle target table. Huh? what are you saying here - you want over-run fuel cut when using anti-lag? Of course. 0% throttle means the throttle is fully closed. How can the throttle position go negative?

You will be best to chase Haltech for that. The dash apparently has a fuel level input on the connector but the functionality is not yet in the dash firmware.

Aux 5 & Aux 6 on the honda plug-in have special hardware attached to them to high side drive the factory actuators. Aux 6 will not be suitable for a Tacho. Inj 5 that was originally the oxygen sensor heater is probably the best option for the tacho.

Connector is the same, pinout is very similar. The Atom doesnt have the 8V pin, AN V4, DI3 or Aux 5/6/7/8, so if you were using any of those on the Storm you might have to shuffle some wires around. To convert the map, you need to connect to the new ECU using PC Link G4+, then open the G4 storm map, it will be converted as it is loaded into the ecu.

Does it run ok? Is ignition table stable if you rev it with it locked? Can you attach your tune and a triggerscope.

From the other thread on the IC7, it seems the Haltech dash is set up to use ID 1400. So try below:

Ok, so do the basics work now with your ID changed to 1400?

Set up as a GP Output, I have used GP Output 4 in this example. The charge cooler pump is controlled by inj 5 so set output to Aux Fuel #5. The conditions that you want the pump to run under are up to you but the example below is probably a decent starting point, it will run whenever throttle is more than 30% or when IAT is more than 50°C, then it will keep running for 30seconds longer after those conditions are false.

Check your firmware is at least 6.16.27, if not up date to the latest and it will likely solve your problem. It sounds like you are suffering from the offset being out by 360.

Ignition drive 1 = Cyl 1 & 6 Ign drive 2 = Cyl 5 & 2 Ign drive 3 = Cyl 3 & 4 Make sure ignition mode is set to wasted spark and trigger 2 sync mode is set to none.

Try doing my test that is explained here:

Your ECU is set up correctly as far as I know. There are a few guys having drama getting those dashes to work at the moment so Im a little suspicious they may possibly not have something quite right in the CAN setup yet? Can you try setting up the CAN as per my pics below, and set the dash to Haltech V2, then tell us if Manifold pressure works on the screen. This set up will make the Link ecu send a message that looks just like the Haltech message so may help confirm if the problem is wiring or something in the dash software. Basic steps; change channel 1 to transmit user stream 1, ID to 864, transmit rate 50Hz. Go to streams tab, click on stream 1, delete frame if there are any already there. Add frame, add parameter, choose MAP, set start bit 16, width 16, Multi 10. Apply, ok, store.

You cant try anything without first sniffing the original bus, reverse engineering it to find the signals that are related to the dash, then trying to reproduce them. In some cases if there are special check sums and heart beat messages you wont be able to reproduce them. Here is the general idea: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zwNJocB-y1Y

Shortcut, click on the cell in the fuel table you want to adjust, type "-8%" and hit enter, will do the math for you.

Can you record a video with your phone or something showing me how you are doing it.

Yes, single mode with your proposed corrections would work. To be honest they are pretty typical for those injectors I wouldnt be too concerned.

Can you attach the map from your ecu and a short log of it driving.

Yes, thats how it works. Attached are some new layouts I done for the next release of PC Link, they may be a better starting point. Default 1366 x 768.llf 1920 x1080.llf

You cant go adding more parameters, the Haltech dash CAN is not configurable at all. It is programmed to receive a fixed set of data only. Does your dash have the latest firmware and it is set to Link G4+ mode?

You would probably want to keep the connection the same as it was originally as sometimes one device (BCM in this case) will be a gateway that combines data from several modules before sending it to the dash. But for the Link ecu to be able to duplicate the factory ECU CAN data you would need to reverse engineer all of the CAN messages the factory ecu was sending out - which is not always an easy task.

The TT CAN bus is connected to CAN 2. You currently have it set to CAN 1. You need to go to the CAN setup, turn off CAN 1 then set CAN 2 to Audi TT. It should look like this when you are done:

That trigger scope has only captured less than half a crank rev. Can you do it again - make sure you only click capture when the engine is already turning. Im not 100% sure but I suspect not all of the M54 cam sensors are hall effect, are you sure yours is? On the M52 that originally had the Siemens ecu with the odd cam sensor it is more common to swap in the M50 Vanos cam sensor. If you know 100% for sure yours is a hall effect then it should work but I think not all M54 sensors are the same. The Hall effect M54 sensor pinout is below:

When you have the set base timing screen open the timing will be locked to whatever value you have in the top "lock timing to" box, so it was probably 0 or 10deg, then when you close that screen it will jump to whatever is commanded in the ignition table - in this case about 22deg. Obviously it will idle faster with 22deg than it will with 0 or 10. Your log shows the MAP was working and the ignition advance commanded matched what is in the ignition table. If you want less than 22deg at idle, then adjust your ignition table to whatever you want. 10ish would be more common.

Ok, I think it is worth trying another sensor, there's none of the normal clues that it has failed though and its pretty unusual for them to read very lean when failed. The Lambda controller appears to be working ok and happy. There is an error reported "low battery voltage", but that happened before the log was started so possibly happened at start up when batt voltage dipped, after that it appears happy.

If you have an old G4 then I dont think there is a way to do this. It was only added in G4+