Adamw

In this that wont work, the OP is using the Altezza plug-in ECU which doesnt have high side drive hardware, so you must have the 2 center taps connected to 12V as it does originally. With a wire-in ECU that has the highside hardware then you can often drive 6 wire motors in bi-polar mode as you describe - provided they pull less than 0.5A.

I told you right at the beginning there is no way to use a CAN parameter for power steer idle step. In the E46 that I done idle ign control took care of it fine.

Note also those aux runtimes that you show in your screenshot will always show "off", they only show on for basic on/off type functions like fuel pumps/fans etc. A couple of other notes; Your base position table doesnt have suitable numbers in it - copy the base position table from the supra base map will be a closer starting point. Same with the max and min clamp - copy from the supra map. You dont have ECU hold power set up so the stepper motor wont be able to reset/home after key-off, so in idle settings you will need to set it to reset at key on - and make sure you give it 5 seconds to reset after you turn the key on and before you start cranking.

Do a short log of it running and attach that and your map here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

Unfortunately there are no spare aux outputs on the expansion connector (well only aux 9 but this can only be used for E-throttle). Easiest option would be aux 4 which is pin B60. So connect one of your solenoid wires to B60 and the other wire needs to go to a 12V supply that is only live when the ign switch is on.

How to record a PC log and save the map: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A Spinning it on the starter motor likely wont be enough. From memory it wont start heating for about another 15 seconds after it sees RPM. You can go to the runtimes screen (F12), then ECU status tab, Lambda 1, and check status there.

Where's the log? If I were to hazard a guess I would say maybe idle ign control?

There is some theory's for and against, but here is an explanation: Most theory suggests MAP divided by BAP would be a more correct way to model it but I believe Link originally came up with the strategy and proved it when many of their customers where involved in a popular hill climb here called "Race to the sky". I have recently tested it pretty well with a gyrocopter (NA) and was surprised how well lambda stayed on target over its full working range.

Ok, so that means it is not happy with the trigger either. We need to fix that before we can get VVT to work. Try using Mazda 3 trigger mode, this is very similar to the Suzuki but has the inverted cam signal. If that doesnt work then it will be worth trying the Suzuki J20A trigger mode as this looks very similar to yours as well (Change trig 1 from reluctor to optical/hall when trying this mode)

Yep you are right, I suspect that might be a bug. I will get it reported to engineering. What you could do as a workaround for the meantime is set Virtual aux 1 as "Fuel pump". Then set aux 13 as GP output with condition + virtual aux 1 on. Then you can use that same virtual aux 1 condition (instead of aux 13) for all your other fuel pumps.

Can you confirm if you have VVT turned off the engine runs ok? No trigger errors? And if you have VVT turned on does the engine still run ok/no trigger errors? I realise the VVT is still not working - but want to confirm if the trigger is ok first before we look at VVT.

Correct except there are 2 grounds. And a GP PWM is lowside drive only. But as I mentioned earlier these work fine connected directly to an aux out, they donot need a pull-up or anything. You dont need the controller that mldc attached - this would be for someone that wants to control the pump without an ECU. What diagram are you looking at? On the pump there should be a 4 pin plug, +12V, a power gnd, a signal ground and a PWM signal. There is no tach output. The G4+ PWM outputs cant do highside drive, only low side. The Aux outputs already have a 1.5Kohm pull-up internally.

Can’t really see much from a screenshot, would able to give better advice if you shared the log and map. But if I were to hazard a guess I would say your gain is way too low

From my notes it looks like all cam and crank sensors were originally grounded to pin B22, the shields probably B31. But any sensor ground will be fine. You may have an empty sensor ground pin on A34, D1 or D2 as these pins where only used on certain models. Other potentially spare sensor grounds would be A21, A26, D31 (oxy probes) & C31 (MAF).

If we look at the OD of the disc and the lower edge of the bolt mounting flange, the evo touches or even overlaps the bolt flange. Granted the phots arent at same angles etc but to me yours looks quite a way further off:

Also FYI, from memory the DC works back to front - 0%DC gives 100% flow and vice versa.

I have never seem them used for VVT but if it lets you then it should work in theory. Im more familiar with the wire-in ecus which only allow Aux 1-4 for VVT. Measure the resistance to check. I suspect they will only pull about 0.5A each. What specific ecu/car do you have?

Some load cells have an amplifier and excitation circuit built-in but most will not. You will need a 0-5V signal for the ECU. A typical gear lever force at the knob is about 8Kg, obviously you need to factor any leverage ratio's in depending on where you place the load cell in the system.

The wheel speeds need to be set to LS First byte order, it looks like most of the other settings are ok. Try this for the steering:

Yes, that will work fine. The last time I set one up for someone I just had a cell in the PWM table that the engine always passed through during start up that resulted in the 3ms wake up. Either ground will work since it has a large threshold.

In thoery either of those options should work. In your first picture with the evo sensor/wheel, it doesnt look like the OD of the wheel goes inside the sensor far enough. Below is a picture of a stock evo setup, notice the OD of the blade goes insid ethe sensor by something like 8-10mm. Yours looks like it is only going in 3 or 4mm? What ECU have you got?

The waterproof ones used the old extruded case and were filled with epoxy from the end cover, the new style diecast case does not really lend itself well to potting. As far as I know Link dont offer it as a service. If you choose to do that yourself, be aware it would then no longer be serviceable should there be a hardware problem in the future. The only other thing you need to know is you will need to run a suitable external baro sensor.

This should be a decent starting point. 45mm ITBs.pclr

Assuming AN V 7 is set to one of the channels that is transmitted to the dash. I guess you cold set it as oil pressure...

Its hard to guess without seeing logs but the different fueling requirement will probably mostly come from the large restriction that you have just added on to the exhaust side of the engine. As for the mixture table adjustment, assuming the main fuel table is tuned adequately so that the mixture is close to the aim then I would usually expect any change to that aim table to give a relative change to the mixture.