Vaughan

Attach a log and a copy of your tune

I haven't used these myself yet but friends have with good success. https://sirhclabs.com/product/vr-to-hall-sensor-converter-dual-channel/

ECU's with P&H drivers have the injector outputs connected to a flyback rail so it is normal to see bat voltage on the injector output when it is "off". 
Note in test mode the injector output only pulses to ground for 2ms, so a multimeter or normal test light wont see it.  You need an LED test light or "noid light" to check the injector pulse is there.  
Those 2200cc injectors will seize up with the slightest hint of moisture anywhere near them so perhaps touch one on a battery with some jumper wires to make sure it does actually click.  
The drivers should be set to saturated also.  

The average function previous values always start as all 0s so it will take 200s to reach the current actual value if it steady and not changing.
you could probably use a timer to show the current value until 200s has passed and then show the average value
Something like this:

The average function previous values always start as all 0s so it will take 200s to reach the current actual value if it steady and not changing.
you could probably use a timer to show the current value until 200s has passed and then show the average value
Something like this:

The average function previous values always start as all 0s so it will take 200s to reach the current actual value if it steady and not changing.
you could probably use a timer to show the current value until 200s has passed and then show the average value
Something like this:

If you take a trigger scope that will confirm the trigger pattern. Regardless of whether or not the timing was set correctly on the factory ECU you need to get a timing light on it with the Link ECU and calibrate the timing in the ECU software.

If the exhaust pressure sensor is setup using the exhaust pressure input and you are using the built in CAN Lambda stream then yes that exhaust pressure will affect the value coming back from the sensor. Best way to solve this in your application would be to use two custom CAN streams instead of the built in CAN Lambda CAN mode and send BAP instead of exhaust pressure.
The Link CAN Lambda CAN info is all specified in the help manual and there are some Link CAN Lambda .lcs (Custom CAN stream) files included in your PCLink install.

Regardless of what you buy getting the signal into the ECU via CAN is far better than via an analog signal so aim to buy something that is CAN capable. The Link CAN is very configurable and so can be setup to work with almost any CAN based Lambda device.
I have seen cheaper Lambda devices be a bit laggy and any analog based signal is prone to ground offset issues and lack of resolution.

Regardless of what you buy getting the signal into the ECU via CAN is far better than via an analog signal so aim to buy something that is CAN capable. The Link CAN is very configurable and so can be setup to work with almost any CAN based Lambda device.
I have seen cheaper Lambda devices be a bit laggy and any analog based signal is prone to ground offset issues and lack of resolution.

Do you have a manual gearbox?
ECU would probably be covered by a G4X Monsoon unless you want a lot of inputs and outputs or plan to do things like E-Throttle.
Monsoon has an internal MAP sensor which sorts that or Link sells MAP sensors or you can use a factory one from the vehicle if you know the calibration of it.
Probably easiest to use the factory water temp sensor but Link does sell water temp sensors too.
For Oil temp you might be better off going for a Bosch combined oil temp and pressure sensor (which Link sells) or Link does also sell appropriate oil temperature only sensors.
For engine loom you're probably best of cutting of the factory ECU plug and pinning it into the Super seal plug that fits the Monsoon (Link sells pin kits). Alternatively if you are handy with wiring you might be able to repin the factory plugs into a Link Plugin ecu as I suspect your ECU will have the same plugs and an ST185 or ST205.
Coil on plug kit you will need to assemble yourself, Caldina gtt coils, 1ZZ coils or any of the other similar toyota coils from that era probably fit, do some research.
@Adamw may be able to help with a startup map.

You can also have Link modify the plugin to provide you with some extra I/O if required. Quick note on the EVO1-3 pnp, from memory Ign 4 is used for ECU hold power which used to prevent you from being able to do direct spark but the latest software release lets you use any other ignition drive for that cylinder 4 coil.

My recommendation would be a single vacuum manifold fed from all 6 runners post throttle plates, use TPS on the Fuel table axis and use MAP connected to the vacuum manifold as the load source so that it acts a multiplier. Also don't forget to balance all of your throttle plates properly.
The G4X doesn't have a way to deal with two separate manifold pressures or Mass air flow values other than treating one as the primary and applying the difference between the two to the ind cyl injector trim. This would work better with dual MAF than dual MAP as MAF should be a linear relationship between increase in value needing increase in fuel mass where MAP is non linear and to be done properly would require things like the Fuel table being interpolated twice, once for each MAP value.

You will need to adjust the charge temp table after zeroing the warmup enrichment to account for that extra fuel no longer being present.

I know its a million years old... but this one is all resolved.  Car is on the road.

Hi @curly sorry I meant to reply earlier, hectic life in startup land. 

Very interesting to hear your experiences. I would be surprised if TC has any effect on the hardware side, unless your guy has 0 mechanical sympathy and just living on the limiter. I did read that certain engines may not be terrible stoked with constant ignition misfires. I'm imagining there's a difference between 'ooh there's the limiter I'll back out a smidge'. vs every corner the engines making more braps than a rotary around the corner
I've pulled the pin and going for a G4+ to G4X upgrade, for a bunch of other reasons, so the guy who's doing the work is also going to setup Traction Control. 

I've been messing with the settings on the Racelogic and it really is limiting (no pun....) to not able to adjust slip by speed. For road use it can feel good straight line coming on at 95-100 with around 5-10% slip. Gives immense amounts of extra acceleration being able to hold the throttle open, but the same slip value down low say pulling out of a roundabout it's very much wants to come on to early where you really want 15-20% slip. 

So looking forward to it ! 

Thank you very much, that's very helpful!
 

if you unplug the map sensor can you feel vacuum on the line while it is running? line could be blocked or have a hole.

Fml. Well… I feel dumb. There’s no vacuum coming from it, must be blocked. 
 
Thanks!

@Vaughan @koracing 
thank you. I dropped the fuel tank today and found the source of the leak they put a regular hose for the fuel pump is all destroyed.  Hopefully that fixes my fuel pressure issue and calibrating the map I will do as well as changing my trigger offset .  I will keep you posted on results .

Nitrous control is only available on the G5, that decision was made quite close to release.

PCLink cannot be used to configure ECUMaster devices.
Might be worth checking if there is anything that actually need configured from the factory default settings for your desired setup.

Either is fine, the important part is that if you are using the bridge you need to make sure that you have a ground that can deal with the current that the bridge will flow. i.e. the Ground wire size and location is appropriate, for example if using an E-Gate on the bridge then you would want to use a thick ground to somewhere near where the starter or alternator grounds.

Thanks so much for the reply, sounds like this is the direction I want to go. Time to start putting together my IO list. Also wild that Link even supports the canister purge valve...no need to vent that thing to atmosphere like my last build 

The Razor PDM is capable of H-Bridge control which requires being able to connect the high power outputs to both battery power and to ground. If the high power outputs are being used for H-Bridge control, especially for high current draw setups like the TurboSmart Wastegate, then it needs to be able to sink that ground current appropriately hence the requirement for a proper ground.
If you aren't using the H-Bridge functionality the ground is still required but the amount of current flowing through it is considerably less and so it is less important to provide a large high quality ground. Note that chassis or gearbox bellhousing/engine block are often suitable and equivalent to connecting directly to the battery negative as they are designed to have the starter current flow through them.