koracing

This has a 1kOhm interal pullup to 5V so it is pretty much dedicated as a temp input as this pullup can not be disabled.  Any other type of 5v analog signal in will possibly have skewed readings due to this pullup.

Got the car tuned last night and made decent power for a 1.6 4ag
Ended up reducing the threshold a bit further up top and did not encounter any misfiring. 
Switching the ISC active state to high did in fact fix my idle issue as well. 
Thank you Adam, Koracing, and Essb00 for your support!
 

I understand you're frustrated, but compared to a lot of aftermarket ecu manufacturers the tech support for Link is amazing.  I've used other ecus in the past that no amount of emailing/calling/messaging would yield any reasonably quick answer, and sometimes the answer wasn't even competent when you got one.  I don't consider link to be perfect by any means but they do a pretty darn good job in my opinion and much better than most.    

When I get some time I'll have to take some videos of the phenomena I'm trying to describe to make it clearer what I'm seeing.

Congrats!! The support from Link on this forum is top notch.  I can't believe people are still buying Power FC's new....

Congrats!! The support from Link on this forum is top notch.  I can't believe people are still buying Power FC's new....

There are individual duty cycle runtimes for primary and secondary.  

Lots of tuners are good at dialing in the rolling road/dyno tuning but not so good at making a good stable and repeatable idle.  End of the downpipe is very commonly used in my installation and doesn't seem to cause pre-mature sensor failure.  I also often add a relay to power the wideband, however, controlled by an ecu output so you can wait for engine to start before the heater turns on to limit thermal shock.

Well here is the vig guys.  Pulled the sensor and when you would flick it, it would show a decreased temperature (this makes sense for an internal short on the sensor but only under vibration). So I put in a real Delphi sensor, and the issue went right away.  I still think that the sensor is not far enough into the flow to be getting a good reading so I might tinker some more with that.
Here is the interesting part.  My logging ability also came back to the computer.  I went on a longer drive, probably 10 minutes, and didn't once lose connection.
I do seem to have a little bit of an issue breaking up at higher RPM, but now that I have logging back, I can look at that more closely.

Yep, this used to be done quite commonly.  MSD white wire to Ign 1, Ign mode set to distributor, spark edge set to rising.
Im pretty sure most of the current "dual sync" distributors are hall effect.  They also make what they call "cam sync" distributors and most of these seem to be reluctor.

Yes DTM pins and connectors - size "20".  There are a few sizes of these pins for different wire gauges and crimper type, but the size that mates in the connector to the sensor is all the same DTM size 20 male or female pin.  The sensor will have male pins in a receptacle and the loom side should have female pins in a plug housing.

Deffo, i was doing that but the plugs got dead and started getting breakup even when i disconnected the meth injection. 
I wasnt sure what ignition break up looked like tbh as this is the first time i've experienced it tuning my rx7/13b engine. However, in my case as you can see it was def stupid rich when i got breakup. Never leaned out on the misfire. Spoke to my engine builder and he was like your ignition coils are gone. Thus me putting in new plugs and testing again. All good now! 

Give this a try. 
I also noticed your firmware is out of date - may want to update that and your current software.

Assuming your switch is a high/low switch meaning it's only sending an on signal to the digital input when it's above minimum pressure, and below a cutoff pressure, you can trigger the AC system or request via a virtual aux that has logic to include both a regular request from an AC on switch AND the pressure switch has to also be active.

Could you attach a copy of your current tune so it would be possible to make more accurate recommendations?

It's possible there is some noise occuring in the trigger signals or the arming threshold is a little off when this is occuring - though if it were a threshold issue I think there would be a trigger error reported.  Ideally you would capture a scope when the problem is actually happening - I wish Link's logging had the ability to log the scope at high frequency for a longer duration for trouble shooting this type of thing.  I've also found that trying to add rpm filtering seems to make this situation worse in some cases.

In G4X you set outputs typically in the menus for those controls if they are not listed in the Aux Output preconfigured outputs listing. 

Just another update. I turned the car back to how it was when the issue started EXCEPT for the 36-2 stock trigger and the noise suppressor on the coil power. Obviously I'm not going to take the suppressor out now as it doesn't hurt.
 
Anyway car is problem free so far!!! I was ripping around at 23psi (problem began at 15+ psi before) and having fun. I just switched to E85 today and started tweaking the fuel VE for that. I'll get that boost up to 30psi here soon and if everything stays good I'll schedule dyno time.

Small suggestion: Alternator control to me would seem more at home in the chassis and body rather than aux outputs?  Maybe it's just me but that's the first place I looked for it.

The Fury and Xtreme can both do DBW but the Storm can not.

Also once it idles at the right speed compare the IAC position at that speed to the base position in the table, they should be close to one another (I recommend base position table value to be slightly higher though by a few percent).  If your base position is a lot higher you'll definitely have high rpm flare-up on starting.

Usually if it's stalling when coming to a stop or idle drops too low when putting in neutral you need to do a couple things:
1. when fully warm, adjust idle air bypass or air bleed to the point that the IAC duty fully warm is 10-20%.  If no idle air bleed adjustment is available, increase base throttle position and reset TPS calibration when done.
2. Set your base IAC position to slightly higher than whatever duty it idles at warm so that it will work down from a higher idle to proper idle position when returning to idle.
3. After those things adjust hold% up until it returns nicely from a throttle blip and doesn't hang or dip below idle speed target.

You would likely see significant timing drift when performing the ign delay test during trigger calibration, and I would expect in logs and on screen etc at some points there would likely be significant dwell scatter.
 
 Depends what you mean by "melted".  Ign timing can cause knock - but this would usually break things rather than melt them.  Melting is generally pre-ignition which can be caused by lean mixtures or something "glowing" in the combustion chamber such as an incorrect heat range spark plug or wrong head gasket bore size etc
 
The "dwell time" is how how long you have the ign coil "turned on" for.  When the coil is "dwelling" the power you are feeding into it is being stored as a magnetic field.  Eventually this magnetic field reaches saturation (with an R8 coil it is around say 3ms).  Once it saturates then any further energy you put into it after that point is just making heat - it is not having any impact on the amount of energy stored in the coil.  The longer you have it "dwelling", also means there is less time between each dwell event to cool.  

Yes, we have been discussing this with GaugeArt over the last couple of days and have come up with a plan.  Your EGT's will be covered and quite a few other GP channels to allow more flexibility for the less common requests in future.  Not sure how long their end will take, I think our end shouldnt be too bad.  

Well this is embarrassing- it IS the 100psi version... Good eye, Kris.
A while back I'd downloaded AEM's user guide for the 150psi version, then I was so fixated on the digital readout I wasn't even looking at the analog dial... which only goes to 100psi...
That is some shocking attention to detail on my part.
I even spent a week or so trying to find where and what I'd ordered but nothing was coming up in my emails or my usual suppliers. Only just a moment ago I found it in my Amazon orders from 2020.
Anyway, thanks Kris. And thanks again for answering the stupid questions @Adamw
 
 

I think your pins should be just fine - analog input and signal ground originally for the LF o2 sensor.