Adamw

You wont get good results with either of these options with closed loop on, they were designed to work with it off.

Using the interpolate mode gets a bit restrictive but you have a few options. One would be like below, put your high/low boost switch on one axis of one or both tables. In this example with the switch off your boost control would be a blend between the "0 row" in these two tables depending on eth%. With the high boost switch on it would blend between the bottom rows of each table. Another option if you want to stick to the interpolate mode is use the "Boost gear trim". You could set up your "hi boost switch" as a gear position input and calibrate it so that the ecu interprets "off" as 1st gear and "on" is 2nd gear. This will then give you an extra trim when the switch is on. A further option would be to turn off interpolate mode and use three individual tables. You can set up a virtual aux to switch between table 1 and 2 at say 40% eth or whatever you like, then the high boost switch activates the third table.

Can you attach your tune also. Does the idle speed drop to an acceptable RPM if you unplug the idle valve?

Make sure you reverse the logic on the engine speed filter also - the conditions are what data you want to include in the result.

I had a closer look at this tonight, unfortunately we cant make the Oil press or fuel press work as I thought. The problem is the E888 has a very odd format for the compound message ID. Most CAN devices use a full byte as the ID but this device only uses the first three bits. The user defined CAN set up in the G4+ only has facility to decode a message that has the ID covering a full byte. The EGT's will come through correctly using the built-in E888 stream. Also your E888 AN V1 & AN V2 will still be received into the ECU using the built-in stream but it will be as raw millivolts so not very useful as pressures. i.e if you fuel press sensor is outputting 3.5V, the ECU will receive that as "CAN AN V1 3500mV". You should still be able to use them for things like GP Limiters etc but I admit it is a bit more painful than having a native "Fuel pressure" channel.

Can you give us a screen shot of your conditions.

Mixture map is used to pull the lambda data out of a whole (large) log. Since a "whole log" may have lots of conditions that cause the measured lambda to be invalid such as transient conditions, overrun fuel cut and limiters etc you need to carefully select filters to filter out most of the junk. The quick trim function is used to only focus on one specific point in time in a log - so you can choose an area where things are reasonably steady state. To use it you have a log and your tune open, set up a page with a time plot showing your common fuel tuning parameters and your fuel table side by side. Drag your cursor to a point in the log trace that you are interested in - usually where throttle/MAP is reasonably steady, you will notice the crosshairs on the fuel table will show which cell it was working in at that point in time. You click on that cell to select it, then hit the "M" key to bring up the quick trim. You just enter the logged lambda value and hit enter and it will correct that cell in the fuel table.

If you are talking about the input latch in the DI settings, then this should be set to off. It reverts to off as that is the only valid choice (they should really hide that setting to not cause confusion). The actual "latching is done in the cruise control menu, there is a setting called "cruise on switch" which can be set to momentary or toggle. Im pretty sure for the Subarus it should be set to momentary. If it doesnt work for you with the latch off and switch set to momentary then please do a short PC log of you attempting to engage cruise and I will take a look.

Sorry, I just noticed that circuit I posted was drawn for divide by 16 (I have used both /8 and /16 with no noticable difference in result). For divide by 8 you would connect pin 9 to the ECU instead of pin 6 as drawn.

You still need to fix the problems that Simon mentioned. With your trigger 1 settings wrong you are going to have significant timing drift and possibly trigger errors. If you have no cam sensor connected you should set trigger 2 sync mode to "none".

A JZX100 plugin was announced to dealers today.

The .pclr file attached earlier is for a G4+ ecu, you will need PC Link G4+. Get V5.6.7

No, sorry not possible. Keyboard shortcut is "U" which may help if you didnt know that. You could set all the other pressure/temp/speed units the same so they dont change between metric/imperial and only lambda changes when you hit the U key...

I cant say for sure if you have a V88 as I havent done much with E-throttle on the old ecus. I have however had success with a G4+ running a S54, but they are pretty fiddly to get right. The main problem seems to be if you let them close too much the vacuum sucks them shut so hard that you cant even open them with a small prybar. I believe the factory ecu overcomes this by using the idle valve instead of the throttles for small pedal movements, and only attempts to open the throttles once the idle valve is fully opened. What worked for me was running quite retarded ignition and the idle valve as closed as possible at normal warm idle - say 0-5degs and 20% on the idle valve. This means the throttle position is far more open just to achieve a normal idle speed so the blades dont get "sucked shut". I know some guys say they needed to remove 3 of the return springs for success, but I didnt need to with this strategy.

I think there is a bug causing this as it has been mentioned a few times before. When I was at Link we tried to reproduce it for quite some time and never could so it makes solving it pretty difficult. I suggest you email your tune,logs and a bit of detail to [email protected] just so it stays on their radar and more files from more users may hold a clue. I have a few customers that I regularly view logs for after a race meeting and it has never happened to me yet. I usually have logging running all the time however (no conditions) and usually delete them after I download.

What you have is a misfire. I dont see any clues in the log that the ECU is causing it. You are probably going to have to visit a tuner for some diagnosis, Your lambda is not working so there are not many clues for us to help from. It could be fuel related or ignition related but that covers a huge range of possibilities, so you really need someone with some experience and test gear to eliminate some of these possibilities and narrow it down. Have you done the basics such as pulled the plugs out to check all electrodes are still there? Fuel pressure? Reduce plug gap?

There is no "long term fuel trim" type functionality. You typically want your fuel map to be tuned properly first an only rely on closed loop to make small corrections. If you are looking for an aid to tune the fuel table then look at the mixture map and "quick trim" functions which allow you to correct the fuel map from logs.

You could set them up as general purpose "CAN AN Volt" inputs for both logging or to trigger an alarm. There are some restrictions with the CAN AN Volt channels though; They always use "Volts" as units - so it will read 29.0V instead of say 29psi or whatever. You cant label/rename them - so you have to remember "CAN AN V1" is Left front tyre press or whatever.

You can connect all to the exp connector if you wish. Pins 26,30,34 & 50 are also sensor grounds. Is this a R33 RB25DET? I know I have seen that FICD connection in some documents, but I have never seen a car with one. On R32 GTR's, pin 36 is the factory air temp sensor. If yours really does have the FICD connectted to pin 36 then I suggest you snip it or unplug in the engine bay. The Link ecu doesnot use this valve, it uses the AAC to do both functions. Since that ECU was designed for a GTR, it has two an volt inputs for the two air flow meters, and another two inputs for the oxyprobes. Plus there are 3 extra on the exp connectors so you should have plenty spare. As far as I know on the GTS's they didnt have speed control at all so Aux 1 & 2 will be free to use for something else.

Those 3 wire coils are non-amplified coils, they will need a separate ignitor to drive them. The Audi R8 coils however have an ignitor built-in and should work fine. Be aware there are at least two different pinouts for the common 4 pin VAG coils so check you have it correct. Audi R8 should be like this:

Yep that should do fine (assuming it is just the on/off type vanos in this engine).

On top of Richards reply I can say a divide by 8 has worked well for me, with 12 blades @ 190000RPM. See this post for how I have done it:

It is showing very lean in your log, that could be a symptom rather than the cause but did you try adding some fuel?

Also, another common problem to look at; With a distributor there are 4 different trigger offsets in the 720 deg cycle that will allow the engine to run. So with a distributor your offset could be 180 or 360 degs "wrong" and it will still run. With COP in direct spark configuration there is only one trigger offset that will allow the engine to run. So check the base timing with a timing light, make sure it is firing near TDC. If that looks ok then try adding or subtracting 360 deg from your current trigger offset.

Due to that cam tooth edge being right under the the point at where the ecu does a sync check (the first tooth after the gap) I think using the multitooth/missing mode is going to be problematic for you. I dont think M50's normally have this problem but nevermind there are a couple of things we can try. My first suggestion is to try the Chev LS7 (90 offset) trigger mode. This mode uses a 60-2 crank and it checks for sync somewhere around the 9th tooth after the gap. After swapping to this mode you will need to change trig 1 back to reluctor and redo the base timing. Let me know if that doesnt work, there are a couple of other options.