koracing

I would no necessarly agree that pwm frequency has no inlfuence. Especially at such high frequency i'ts likely the current is not a nice square wave any more. If you zoom in with a oscilloscope the tace is looking more like a sinus curve (eges rounded). Means total energy in the coil of DBW Motor( area under the curve) is less., especially at low Duty Cycles.
This behavior can be seen already with 50hz+ on a Hella PWM Relay. 

The early G4X Atoms and monsoons only had a basic trigger scope that captures the signal after its been through the vr conditioning, so in this case the scope shows the expected pattern.  
@nick99 do you still have a problem?  Your note above that says “everything is working now” I assume means you have rpm now?

Hi, 

My other car has been off the road for ages, and life has been in the way. 

So I thought it might be fun to just wire up my ECU into the Echo so I could have a play around with some tuning stuff again. 

It's a 1300cc economy engine so not going to set the world on fire. But a bit of fun.

I need/want to revert it all to factory though, so I bought a spare ECU from wreckers and cut the plugs out to make a patch loom.



This car has VVTI on the intake side, which means I could do my usual sweep through the vvti angles and see which delivers the most airflow into the engine. 

Results were unexpected:

(Colour scale is cam angle, blue is 0 degrees advance)



The engine pretty much hated having any cam advance at all over say 3000rpm. 
As opposed to my other engine where it likes lots of advance right to say 6500rpm then tapers off. 

I also noticed that the mass air flow rate just absolutely flatlines when you got to around 4000rpm. 

I didnt have a map sensor connected, but my suspicions were that it relates to the absolutely tiny throttle body, and the super long skinny runner on the intake manifold. 

There didnt look to be a  particularly easy way to fit a bigger throttle body, as the whole manifold is plastic and there's not much scope for boring it out.

So looking in the parts bin, I had some silvertop 4AGE throttles in the garage. 

I have a 3D printer that could bang together a usable prototype so after a few adjustments ended up with this.





Then printed some trumpets to available clearance.



Everything fit up surprisingly easily, the most expensive part of the swap (of parts I didnt already have) was just buying a radiator hose so I could move the filler cap a little further over. 

Results - were amazing! 
Instead of flatlining at 4000rpm, it just kept going up. I'd keep revving it a bit higher to help mitigate the crummy gearing from 1st to 2nd, but it starts getting valve bounce at around 7200rpm.
Also, now since the pressure differential from intake side to exhaust side has lessened (less intake vacuum at WOT) the engine now likes having more cam advance to make use of some scavenging.
Virtual dyno showing really good gains, and the difference in the fuel map backed this up too.




I took this car to the drags last year for a laugh, and when standard it ran a 17.6 @ 77mph with a 2.5 sec 60foot. 

So I wanted to try beat this as best I could, so setup a basic launch control using just rpm limiter with vehicle speed as a load axis



I figure I can tweak the 0kph limit up or down to set how much initial wheelspin it has, and then tweak the decay rate to calm down any excessive wheelspin as it gains speed. 

Some testing was looking promising but I also havent really been in the mood to deal with a blown up clutch so I didnt spend too much time on it.

The printed manifold got some reinforcing just in case.



Come to drag day. 



I think this launch control method would have worked well if I was doing a burnout to scuff the tyres. But since I was clutch concious I was just rolling through. So the tyres would get wet to a varying degree and also the rubber debris you pick up varies from run to run. So I found it was a bit inconsistent.

None the less, managed to improve the PB significantly to 16.4 @ 83mph. With a slower 60ft at 2.6 seconds

So possibly even quicker however I only completed a minimal amount of runs for sake of clutch preservation. 
(I've owned this car since 30,000km, it's now on 195,000km with original clutch)

It's actually been heaps of fun, and it's a completely different car to drive with the better intake. 
I've got a gearbox ready to fit with better final drive ratio and gearing from the RS model, and a torsen LSD to fit in it. 
I'll also chuck the 1500cc motor in at some point, I'd imagine it would dip into the 15 second bracket pretty easy with that combo. 
And it's great because all of the parts are hilariously cheap. If I could wring 100hp per litre out of the 1500cc setup it would be pretty hilarious to drive, as it's only around 800kg. Still not the same power to weight ratio as my other car, however, would be a heap of fun to do some autocross/hillclimbs/small track stuff with. 

This was a customer car with a 12 position switch (AEM I think) I remote dyno tuned.  We set the swtich to allow it to blend between his minimum (pump gas) boost level and different levels on ethanol depending on switch position.  I know this isn't exactly what you were asking to do, but it shows another approach to still get proper ethanol content based boost with multiple switch positions.

The reason the switch position are on the x-axis of these boost tables was there wasn't 12 rows available on those tables

I'm picking up a 1.8 VVT motor for my NA MX5 tonight so might have to give this alternator control a go myself

I'm not sure if it's just me, but I find the help menu pinout diagrams being named using a different convention than the models that are sold somewhat confusing at times when I'm trying to find information for applications I may not be as familiar with.  If an ECU is sold as a ST205 unit - if I go to the pinout diagrams I happen to know this is MR2Link V2-3.  An ST205 is the chassis code of a 94-99 Celica 3SGTE powered and AWD (also known as a GT-Four).  The MR2 with the same engine and wiring pinout would be the SW20 from 1994-1999 (outside of the US).  If I wasn't as familiar with 3SGTE applications as I am, I might find this confusing. 
On Subarus I am much less familiar: if I have a customer with a WRX107X unit - I'm not sure at first glance if I should be looking at a WRX 04 and 07 diagram, or WRX (7-9) unit.  Similarly WRX6X unit, and the WRX2X. 
Even a sentence once you click on a pinout diagram listing the exact plug-in model sold that the diagram applies to would potentially be useful, if not a complete model list of the original vehicles that share a particular pinout.  

That one is my bad, I have fixed it and it will be available in the next release.

The MAC valve should have pretty audible clicking at 20-32Hz and 20-65% duty cycle.  400Hz would unlikley make any noise at all...  Something doesn't seem right there.

It looks like it is just pulling the wrong label from somewhere, I just tested on the bench and it works fine just how you had it set up originally.  I will report the issue to engineering and get it fixed, but for now it does actually work.

I would say yes it is most likely actual knock.  Track or circuit racing is going to be relatively high duty cycle at high load and knock can happen the longer you run the car hard.  
 
If you want to see if it gets better, try retarding ignition in the particular cylinder 2 degrees in that region and add 2-3% fuel on that cylinder in that region.  If you run another track event in similar weather and it happens less, then you had some knock there, and pulling 2 deg all the times is better than 5 degrees more of less all of the time.  Not that one would be making power knocking anyway. 

Thanks for that. 
It’s definitely been a learning process trying to replicate the G4+ settings. 
Maybe it’s just because I’m not used to it but the input/output settings are so tedious. I preferred how the G4+ had all the setting in the same spot. 

How likely is it that it will end up being a wire to wire / pin to pin same ecu as the thunder in the X format?  I hope there is something even better on the horizon.  PDM integration?

Most of the plug-in ecus and the wire in g4+ appear to have the RS232 Serial TX/RX on them, so they should work.  I've connected via serial to a few different model plug ins and a G4+ Xtreme and Storm wire-in.  You would need to wire up a serial connection or get the serial CAN-SER cable though.  I've never needed to repin anything with these cables to have it connect to either a direct serial port or a USB to serial adapter.  If you wire individual pins you would need at a minimum the TX, RX, and GND for serial communication.  On the DB9 pin connector the pins would be  RX pin2,TX pin3, and GND pin5.

I have had my Link Extreme running in this 1969 Mustang for over a year now. I finally was able to get on a Dyno and do some real tuning. This thing made an effortless 800whp and 677ft lbs on only 17 psi of boost and a very conservative 19° of timing. 
 

 

Reading through the notes of the recent changes to temp input capabilities it does look like the intent was to allow the temp inputs to be used in this way, but I think pressures may have been overlooked.  
I will get this on the list to have another look at.
In the mean time the work around would be to do it via a GP input and math block like below.  I know, a bit of a ball ache...

 

Of course -- everything in moderation.  I was lucky enough one time to have the state run emissions testing station near me allow me to make changes on the spot to the tune until it passed (they weren't busy that day).  

Ok mate to easy I’ll have a browse tonight and see what I can sort out when I’m able to get to my computer and car.. thanks for the input mate appreciate it 

Here is the logic I used, seem to work. 25s on cold start, 5s on hot restart.

What size are your injectors?  The Pre crank prime is in milliseconds, so the values there will vary depending on injector size.

I would also make sure to use a RPM level so that your wideband doesn't just light up 20 seconds after key on if you were sitting there without the engine running. 

Thanks, I make driven wheel speed source to gp speed 1 (like driving wheels) and 3d mode with single axis like Vaughan wrote and works perfect now. 

Logic level would be a few milliamp only - enough to drive a transistor.  
In the plug-in ecus where Inj7/8 are used as aux outputs, a circuit like below is fitted to the bottom board.
  
 

Average knock level to help adjust gain between cylinder.
 

Here is the knock settings I used on one E36X equipped car that may give you a reasonable starting point:

Use at your own risk of course.