Adamw

Assuming they are high impedance injectors it will be fine. If they are low impedance it may also need some ballast resistors added. From a tune perspective you will get it running reasonably well just by changing the master fuel number. From there the whole fuel map/zones will likely need a tickle up.

I think you might be mixing up a couple of things. Over-run fuel cut only occurs when you lift-off/coast with the throttle closed to save fuel. This occurs regularly in your log but only with the throttle closed and will never never happen on boost. This is not a boost cut or any other limiter action showing in your log. What is the actual problem that you are experiencing?

Ign 5 & 6 arent physically routed to any pins or connector on that particular ECU. What are you wanting to do - 6 cyl engine or just need more auxes?

Assuming you have the idle valve frequency set to something suitable and it is actually working, then if the idle speed is not high enough when the valve is already at 90% then you are going to have to adjust the throttle stop screw so more air can enter the engine.

Correct, what some other manufacturers call "rolling antilag" is known as latched launch control in the G4+. It functions as you describe. When you are driving along and hit the button, the ECU looks at the current RPM and latches this as the launch limiter, you can then open the throttle as much as you like and the ecu will hold the engine/car at the same RPM/speed using a limiter. As soon as you let go of the button the limiter is removed and the engine is allowed to accelerate.

Back in the G4 days, Link marketed the Vi-pec range as the premium ECU and the G4 as the lower cost less frills version. The mixture map functionality was one of the premium features that the Vipec had and the G4 didnt. Knock control, P&H injector drives & configurable CAN where the other differences I remember.

Do a short PC log of it cranking and attach that and a copy of your map here. This video is for a G4+, but navigation in G4 is similar: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

Im assuming first the ECU is wired to a car and powered up... Incorrect or just junky USB OTG adapters is the most common problem I see with tablets. If you look in windows device manager under ports COM & LPT you should see a Link ECU listed in there when it is plugged in. If not then you have a connection/cable issue.

If you put PC Link on your tablet, does that connect ok? The most common problem I see is junk USB OTG adapters that dont work, so connecting to PC Link will be an easy way to confirm that.

No, Black goes to a solid ground. Red needs to go to a relay that switches on with the ignition switch. CAN H & L need to be wired to the ECU. If you have a plug-in ECU then you will want a CANPCB cable and the mating CANF plug to connect the CAN.

The odd idle oscillation when it is warming up appears to be due to the throttle bouncing around a bit. However, Im not sure on the root cause of this, it is not the idle control system as the CL trim stays near zero, it is either the E-throttle PID is a bit aggressive or maybe something completely unrelated (such as mechanical vibration or resonance in the intake etc) that is having an influence. I would start by reducing the E-throttle Proportional gain to 6.0 and also fix the warmup enrichment table so that it is not so overly rich during warmup. Lets see if these make it any happier.

The base map is set up to use MAP, not MAF. Assuming you have connected a vacuum hose to the MAP sensor, then set AN Volt 11 to MAP and the calibration to 4 Bar. You also need to set your injector size to match whatever you have - it is currently set to 900cc which is unlikely on a stock engine.

Attach your tune and tell me which E888 inputs the pressure sensors are connected to.

CJ is on the money here, CAN AN Volt channels display in volts only. For linear sensors you can often use the multiplier/divider/offset to scale it into something more meaningful - for instance you might scale it so that 100psi pressure is displayed/logged as 100.0V. You can also receive oil pressure, fuel pressure or exhaust pressure as native can channels. NTC Temp sensors are not normally linear so there is no way to calibrate these in G4+ from a CAN input - unless the linearisation is done in the sending device.

You will need to attach a log of it and a copy of your tune. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

When the ISC mode is set to E-throttle, the AP/TP lockout is looking at pedal position, not throttle position. So you should need any more than 1%, more commonly around 0.5% works best.

You will be best to attach here on the forum rather than PM so others may learn how to diagnose a similar problem based on the feedback you get.

Yes I beleive so, im not sure on the value of it though.

You should be able to connect directly CAN H/L, no resistors needed.

Before you get too stressed about it, as far as I can think, the fuel density temperature coefficient will only mater if you actually have a fuel temp sensor connected (or flex sensor). So if you don't then it is of little consequence. If you do have fuel temp connected then I would go for the petrol number since the small amount of additives is unlikely to change its bulk properties much (that's just my intuition - no scientific evidence to back that up).

There is no VVT functionality in the Atom - only "switched" camshafts such as honda Vtec or Nissan VTC. The Monsoon is the lowest level ecu with proper VVT support.

In your earlier logs with the ign timing going to zero, the idle ignition was rarely active and the table didn't even have any zeros in it so the "dropping to zero" was not resolved by turning it off. The dropping to zero was caused by the ecu losing sync every few revolutions due to the cam wiring. That's not to say however after fixing the cam wiring that you then had an idle oscillation that was related to idle ignition control. Based on your log, I would change the idle ign activation conditions just a little, try something like: MAP lockout 45kpa. RPM lockout 1300. AP lockout 0.5%.

Boost solenoid will be ok without a flywheel assuming it is a common mac valve at 20-30Hz. The ign drives are only pulled up to about 7V. You can add a 12V pull up if needed. Assuming the PS pump only needs a low current signal then 1-2Kohm will do it.

Ok, it looks to me like we have solved the ign dropping to zero problem now, is that correct? Do your longer logs show the ign dropping to zero like it did before? BTW, if you want to attach more files then share it using google drive, onedrive, icloud drive etc. As for the idle hunting, there are a few things all contributing. Mostly though it is the throttle causing it. I would start by increasing the ISC deadband, something like 50RPM is more common for DBW. DBW idle control is too slow to give good idle control on its own - by the time it opens to increase idle RPM, there is already enough air in there for it to overshoot - then it has to close again and so on. So you need ign control to work in conjunction with it. For idle ign control to work well you are going to want smaller numbers in the idle area of your main ign table - usually around 10deg gives you enough authority for the idle ign to quickly increase torque when it needs to. So if you have 10deg in the main ign table, then you want your idle ign table to look something like this: You may have to play with the numbers either side of the zero cell if this is too aggressive. The fuel table needs to be flattened out around idle area too, switch to graphic mode and you will see what I mean.

It is a Japanese automotive standard wire known as AVSS. Thin insulation, rated for intermittent use at 120°C. 0.75mm2 for the Red and Black wires, 0.5mm2 for the rest. American grade TXL is quite similar.